1. Introduction to coastal engineering and National coastal morphology 2. Mechanics of wave motion (small amplitude wave theory), propagation, velocities and acceleration, particle displacement and subsurface pressure. Wave and water level predictions, statistics and wave forecasting. Regular waves; irregular or random waves; wave statistics; wave transformations and wave breaking. Wind waves (physics, fetch graph, spectral models). Wave climate (observations, probability summaries, and intensity-duration-frequency). Tides (observations, harmonic analysis, and propagation). Storm tides (historical storms, evolution, frequencies). Wave evolution (diffraction, combined refraction-diffraction). Near shore circulation (surf zone, undertow, long shore current, edge waves). River engineering. 3. Coastal protection methods 4. Calculations of transported sediments i.e. load in suspension, bed load, etc. Bed formation. Practical field survey.
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